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Feeling the Gay Lovin'

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I've covered the Christopher Street Day Parade on this blog before (A Gay Affair 2011), wrote a post on the work blog about this year's event in Berlin (Gay Pride: An Expat Celebrates Berlin's Christopher Street Day) and waxed on endlessly about equality in person. But this month, LGBT Pride Month, my cup has truly runneth over in gay lovin'. Let me count the ways...

1}

On our trip home to America, we proudly returned to our home state of Washington which had legalized same-sex marriage (Details here.)

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We gained a new dad! Ian's dad got married to his partner and though he worked us like dogs getting ready, we all partied like rock stars on that happy day. Congrats Dandy!
Happy Family

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Gay Pride Berlin

Our return to Berlin rudely overlapped with Ian's 30th birthday, so we spent his special day in the air. Not ideal.

What did work - 2 parties! One in Seattle & one in Berlin. The second party just so happened to coincide with Christopher Street Day Parade so we spent the day amongst thousands of other jubilant people.
Victory Tower Berlin
Siegessäule Loves All

free condoms gay pride
A free condom for the Birthday Boy!


More pics of the celebration (and penises! Or penes? Or peni?) on our Facebook albumIan Becomes a Man at the CSD Parade


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As if we couldn't be joyous enough, the USA did us proud overturning the repugnent Defense of Marriage Act (DOMA). What does this mean? Roughly, from US News
"The victory means the federal government must recognize the marriages of gay and lesbian couples married in the 12 states that allow same-sex marriage, plus the District of Columbia, and give them the same benefits that they had been previously denied under the struck-down law, the Defense of Marriage Act (or DOMA)."


Don't be fooled that the fight is over, but let's take this moment to recognize our happiness.

Let's make this a good month,
a good year,
a good future.

 

Offbeat Washington: Leavenworth - A German Village in America

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Growing up in Washington State, trips to Leavenworth are practically mandated. Christmas, summer, or for one of the largest Oktoberfests in America (not quite like the real Oktoberfest). It's cute. It's kitsch. It's a tourist attraction.  
We love it.

German village in the USA

Leavenworth History

Leavenworth, WA sign

Talking to some Europeans, it's hard to properly emphasis how very young our area of the ole US of A is. Located up in the far NW corner, the first major route from the east coast arrived over 100 years after the nation was born (Declaration of Independence in 1776; first route across Stevens Pass and the Cascade Mountains built by the Great Northern Railway in 1892). Of course the land was already occupied by some adventurous settlers,  and the native people we were plotting to kick off their own land. But at this time, the tribes of the Yakima, Chinook, and Wenatchi co-existed from Lake Wenatchee to the Icicle Valley.

The town of Leavenworth was one of the towns settled along the railroad route and on the Wenatchee River. The Lamb brothers, Lafayette & Chauncery, arrived in 1903 and built the second largest sawmill in Washington state which catered to the small timber community. Leavenworth grew and prospered...until the railroad relocated to Wenatchee in the 1920s. The failure of the sawmill and logging industry hollowed out the town and Leavenworth was looking at certain, yet slow, extinction.

In 1962, Project LIFE (Leavenworth Improvement For Everyone) Committee created an absolutely looney, last-ditch plan to save the town. Picking a theme from the pristine backdrop of Alpine mountains, the town re-modeled completely as a Bavarian village. A themed town had been done before in towns like Solvang, California, and at this point it was worth a shot.

Thus - Leavenworth, a Bavarian village in Washington, was born.

Even crazier, the plan worked! A complete renovation of all existing buildings created a charming downtown, even of the Safeway and fast food locations. In addition, many shopkeepers took to wearing tracht (traditional Bavarian wear) like lederhosen and dirndls. The city also started hosting German-themed events like Maifest and the Christmas Lighting Ceremony.

The town doesn't get everything right as far as authenticity, but what they do excel at is German cuisine, beers, and charming atmosphere. It was even named the "Ultimate Holiday Town USA by A&E".  It can be too crowded (watch out for holidays & festivals where absolutely everything is booked at twice the price), but this holiday destination - just a short drive from Ian's& my hometowns - is still a favorite.

German village in the USA

Leavenworth Attractions

Besides the charming town itself, especially the one main street, there are several shops and attractions we recommend you visit.

Mountains

This hillside village is nestled among the glorious Cascade Mountain Range. Lovely sight anytime of the year, these are some of the closest Seattle slopes for skiing (even though Ian & I just spent our first ski trip in the Czech Republic). For skiers in the area, consider Stevens Pass. The area also features some epic white water rafting.

German village in the USA

Leavenworth, WA mountains

Pavilion

Ah, the pavilion. The wondrous sounds of polka are being pumped through the speakers during most of the day and you can wonder on this side of the street for the hodge-podge of art sellers. Interested in a picture of a sailing eagle? It's here! Kittens playing? They got it! Majestic orca in the Puget Sound? You bet'cha!

German village in the USA

Whenever the speakers do take a break, it is for a live band. They make surprisingly frequent appearance and are also - usually - of the polka variety .

Sometimes, it's more than a little odd.



The Wood Shop & Hat Shop

 A perpetual favorite of children and adults (or at least adults like us), the hat shop is a mandatory visit. Pictures are allowed, so no shame in modeling fine head toppings like this -

Hat Shop Goofy

...or this

Leavenworth  Hat Shop
 
...or this

Pig Hat


....or this and this!


Beer Hat

ebe & Thomas - a real German!

 There are a ton of cute/touristy stores on the main street so go in and conquer!

 Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum

I remember when I was a kid and the number one thing I wanted for Christmas was a nutcracker and a rectangular box appeared under the tree with nutcracker paper so I immediately yelled out "Nutcracker!", to which my mom accused me of peaking. I am setting the record straight right now - I did not peak, but I am also not an idiot.

Now, where was I? Oh yeah -
Leavenworth is also home to the Leavenworth Nutcracker Museum which is a big deal for some visitors. It contains more than 5,000 nutcrackers dating from prehistoric to modern times, so if you need some nuts cracked or like little wooden men around your house, take thee to the Nutcracker Museum!

German Food

Understandably, we weren't in the mood to sample the wonderful German food. We wanted pure Americana In Our Mouth for the entirety of the trip back to the States.

We recommend the popular biergarten in the corner for a pretty close to authentic experience, Baren Haus, and Gustavs - but really most places will satisfy. Authenticity is suspect, but Leavenworth is for fun - not to substitute for the real Germany.

Ice Cream

Leavenworth, WA
Another attractive feature of Leavenworth is that is often the gateway to sunny Eastern Washington for us soggy West-siders. Grab an ice cream cone & enjoy!

Leavenworth Resources


Housing:

Note that prices for hotels go way up during Oktoberfest and the Christmas Lighting Festival.

We've stayed in the Icicle Innfrom time to time and actually gotten some great deals in off-season. 

Our friends just got married outside of Leavenworth in the even tinier town of Plain. The setting at Mountain Springs Lodge was simply stunning with a variety of lodges on offer.

Leavenworth WA sign



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More Washington?

DBall Baklava - Baking with Dad

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Remember 6th grade when all you needed to get an "A" on a project was to bring food? I had one such project on Greece and being the "A" student I was, I took baklava (or rather my wonderful mom bought some for me from the local Greek restaurant). No surprise - I got an A.

family makes baklava in the USA
Lets make these cookies!


Little did we know that years later my dad's skills as a baker would include some of the tastiest baklava I've ever had. He even sent some across the ocean to us in Berlin. On our visit home we were eager to learn this magic.

In case you are intimidated and think this recipe might be too hard, listen to the wise words of DBall:
Well Erin I was just sitting thinking about making something sweet and remembered you asked for the Baklava recipe. I love making it and really enjoyed showing you two how to put them together. It wasn’t too hard, just having all the ingredients and following the steps. Besides it was fun watching you and Ian put together such a fine batch. I think they came out pretty good.


Baklava Recipe

Makes 30

Ingredients

  • 3 cups ground pistachio (you can use walnuts)
  • 1 1/4 cup confectioner sugar 
  • 1 tbsp ground cardamon
  • 1 1/3 cup butter (melted)
  • 1 lb phyllo dough (frozen is fine, just defrost)
baklava recipe

Syrup ingredients

  • 2 cups granulates sugar
  • 1 1/4 cup water
  • 2 tbsp rose water (vital ingredient for right smell & flavor, but don't overdue it)

Don't stress too much about making the recipe "right". Each time dad does it he says they come out different, but delicious.



baklava recipeInstructions

    1. Start by making the syrup. This is done by placing the water and sugar in a saucepan and bringing to a boil. Simmer for 10 minutes until it reaches the consistency of syrup and stir in rose water. Remove from heat.
    2. Mix nuts, confectioner sugar & cardamon in a bowl. 
    3. Pre-heat oven to 325 F and brush baking pan with butter. 
    4. Lay a damp towel (not wet) below and between the layers of phyllo dough so it doesn’t start to dry and tear. Separate one layer, lay in pan and brush gently with butter. Continue until you have 6 layers of phyllo sheets. There will be some ripping, but the butter mill mend minor tears so just keep going.
    5. Spread nut mixture over the top.
    6. Repeat 6 phyllo layers and then nuts until out of materials, ending with a phyllo layer on top. (2 sections of nuts works great).
    7. Cut the pastry into diamond shapes which is not nearly as hard as it looks. First cut the dough on the diagonal, then make straight vertical cuts. Viola! Diamonds. Pour remaining butter over the baklava.

      Baking with dad

      baklava recipe
      Cat Supervision encouraged


      8. Bake the baklava for 20 minutes, then increase the temperature to 400 F and bake 15 more minutes. Baklava should be golden brown and puffy.


      baklava recipe


      9. Drizzle syrup over the baklava, allow to seep in, and enjoy! If you are DBall, stick a candle in it cuz it's your birthday. 


      retired baking dad


      Hommade baklava


      More sage advice from DBall:
      Ok that’s it for advise have fun with it. Enjoy making them or go down the street to the bakery.
      Wise words sir. I will cherish them forever.

       

      More Baking with Ball


      Why You Should Stay in Berlin This Winter

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      Berliners get extra ungemütlichkeit in winter as the days grow short and ice freezes in your/Ian's beard. Many try to flee the city, but I am making the case for celebrating the darkest season in the capitol. This is partly because we are poorer than ever and condemned to have no escape from the brutal Berlin winter. And since we gotta stay, we are trying to make the most of it and you should too.

       

      Indulge in the Many, Many Christmas Markets



      One of the most obvious reasons is also the best. Germany is world famous for it's Christmas Markets (rightfully so). While Berlin doesn't host the best in the country, they are still enough to impress most foreigners.

      Glühwein (mulled wine) is served everywhere from the local Dönerstand to every Christmas market. It helps battle the cold and it's alcoholic nature makes everything better.

      SlowBerlin offers a good run down of the best Christmas markets in Berlin in 2013, with VisitBerlin offering comprehensive market listings. If you desperately need the real-deal Weihnachtsmärkte experience, I recommend further afield like theoldest market in Dresden


      Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz


      Potsdamer Platz's unique architecture is decorated for Christmas - usually bizarrely and often associated with LEGOs. Get your strange Christmas photo now!

      WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt



      This is my favorite Christmas market as the surrounding architecture defines the city. Santa, or the Weihnachtsmann, makes an appearance at this market at 20:00, soaring over the historic square in front of the Fernsehturm (TV Tower) complete with 1 reindeer and a fiery sleigh. The ice skating around the Neptune fountain also offers some of the best people watching... as they fall down.


       

       

      Added bonus: Ugly Sweater Pub Crawl

      Embrace the season, don a ridiculous outfit and see how many bars you can visit before your fingers fall off. Extra Extra bonus points if you can coerce any native Berliners to play along!




      Christmas Tree Shopping

      Even poors like us spring for a tree. Because many Germans buy their tree, decorate and give gifts all on the 24th - don't expect any last-minute deals.

      Plus, finding a tree somewhere in your vicinity and finding a way to get it home adds an element of insanity to your Christmas.

      It may be small, but it's mighty.

       

      Christmas Eve in the Berliner Dom

      Even atheists like me can appreciate the stark beauty of Christmas Eve services in Berlin's Protestant cathedral. Listen to children sing the Christmas songs you know so well in their original German and appreciate a rare chance to see the church in action.



      Somber Memorials Best Viewed Cold


      Visiting Berlin's memorials always feels a bit wrong when it is sunshiny outside. As lively and entertaining as the city is, observing it in one of it's best colors - grey - can be quite fitting.

      Neue Wache


      Nikolaiviertel's St. George & the Dragon

      Neptunbrunnen


      Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

       

      Graffitti Looks Good in the Snow

      On the other hand, one of Berlin's best features looks great off-set by snow.


      RAW Temple

      Silvester

      New Years (Silvester) in Berlin is like nowhere else. Any child with a limb left can hold a bottle rocket - and they do. The city explodes from every street, balcony, window, and rooftop.

      Last year, we even very nearly blew ourselves up. So every year I vow not to write about it, but after narrowly escaping with my life I just can't help it.





      Flea Markets Remain Open

      Come rain or come snow, flohmarkts like that of Mauerpark open on Sundays to offer their wares of vintage dresses, avant-garde light fixtures, and silk screened everything. If you didn't get what you want for Christmas/Chanukah etc., this is your chance to go get it yourself.



      Utilize Berlin's (Mostly) Amazing Transportation

      London, Tokyo and New York City receive heaps of praise for their public transport systems, but Berlin deserves some transport loving too. Even though the S-Bahn frequently fails to adequately prepare for ice most years, the majority of the system remains accessible as snow piles underfoot. I know in hilly Seattle we are stranded at the first sign of ice. The BVG knows you've got bars to get to!

      Full rundown on Berlin Transportation

       

      Added bonus: Ride the Party Tram

      The M10 from Prenzlauer Berg to Friedrichshain is affectionately known as the Party Tram. Even some of the other aforementioned transportation options even take on a more jovial feel with an unheard of amount of camaraderie (aka people actually talking to each other) and drinks and confetti getting people in the mood. 



      Premium Sledding


      Berlin's flatness provides a unique challenge in trying to find the greatest hill.We found ourhill so go find your own. We don't want more kiddies getting in our way. Become one with the cold...





      Take it up a Notch with Ice Skating

      Sledding too lame for you? Really go for broken bones with ice skating.

       

      Or even better - Skiing!

      We went for our inaugural attempt in the Czech Republic last year and looked pretty ridiculous doing. Luckily - it was so much fun we are willing to humiliate ourselves once again.




      For more pics of the madness that takes over at this time of year, check out our Photo Advent Calendar + some of our favorite Christmas Movies


      What do you do in Winter? What are we missing? My guess is, a lot.

      Berlin Gift Guide

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      After such a long wait to Thanksgiving and a bit of a stressful last few months I CANNOT believe it is almost Christmas. Less than a week to the big day, I am daydreaming about some of my best Berlin-related gifts as well as new things to covet.

      Here are my Top 6 Berlin gift ideas.


      My mom has taken on a very clever habit of watching what I pin to pinterest and buying my gifts from there. This has resulted in both of us being very happy, like when I received this metallic BVG map bracelet.

      Though the company is based in the States, there are items that feature maps from New York, London, Chicago, Paris, and Milan. At $37, they aren't cheap, but they are quality. Plus - it hasn't failed to garner compliments every time I wear it.

      BVG Bag

      Berlin Germany gifts
      Bellatrix may not be impressed, but we are.

      If you are going to grocery shop in Berlin, you better have a good bag. Our best cotton bags are on their last legs, so when we saw these cotton bags at the BVG office in Alexanderplatz - sold! Clearly, we have a thing for maps.

      Dolores Gift Card

      Mexican restaurant in Berlin Germany

      Is there anyone who doesn't love Delores in this city? Serving inexpensive Mission-style burritos, this isn't real Mexican food but it is real delicious.

      Scratch-off Map

       

      Replacing our red dot map, this thing is the bees knees. We love tracking our adventures and clearly we aren't alone. Scratch off each destination until the whole world is clear.

      I Like Paper's Watches, Wallets & More

      So, I am interning and it is a bit grueling and light on the rewards. However, there are rewards, like finding out about this badass company based in Berlin.

      My fellow intern visited their workshop for a write-up and they really have an amazing set of designs that they print on all sorts of products. Ian is looking eying a the Lost in Berlin (maps!) designs, but I think I am partial to the Bitch Wedding Packman design posted above.

      www.dein-plan.de's Fernsehturm Ornament

      Berlin Germany gifts

      Map mania strikes again! Wandering the Christmas market of Alt-Rixdorf, we saw these charming Fernsehturm key chains and decided we really shouldn't spend the money. Then we looked at the map and saw it was of our street. It was fate - we had to buy it.




      There are a lot of gift lists floating around - do you have a favorite? What Berlin gift is your best?

      We Ate the East End: Eating London Food Tours

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      Eating at St. John Bread and Wine Spitelfields East London
      We were a bit of a disaster. A hectic September with multiple trips to Manchester left us comatose for as long as life would let us until suddenly I was in London on a work trip with Ian set to join me for the weekend. What should have been a fun-filled outing was stressing us as we couldn't decide on a plan of attack and were completely overwhelmed with options. We've been here before, and clearly I am in that place again as it has taken me months to talk about one of the best things we've ever done in London!

      We were saved from our indecision by an answer from heaven (or more specifically from twitter). Travels of  Adam connected us with the Eating London and just like that - we had a day of eating planned. As I said, heaven.

      Eating London Food Tour

      In their own words:
      The East End is a neighbourhood is like no other in London. Its tapestry of diverse cultures, mouth-watering cuisines, unique architecture and fascinating story make it an unforgettable destination. Our 3.5 hour walking food tours offer you an opportunity to escape the crowds and explore the East End by eating your way through the neighbourhood interspersing history, tradition, and local food culture as we go. The tour is for small groups and led by entertaining local guides that will introduce you to London's best foods at locally-loved places that not only serve up delicious food, but also carefully fit into the East End's remarkable story.
      Food Tour in London's East End
      I apologize to Nicole as she is a lovely person who I managed to get not one good photo.

      What this translated to for us was a full day of eating, talking and walking the East End. We learned much more than I expected about the history of this unique place and sampled beautiful dishes thsat define the area.

      Each place has been carefully selected to highlight different features of English, and particularly the East End's, cuisine and notable restaurants. Our walking "meal" bouncing from beautifully salty bacon buttys to the dual UK national dishes of curry and fish and chips. Like Gilligan's Island, we were ready to take off on a 4 hour tour that would change our lives.



      St. John Bread and Wine

       

      St. John Bread and Wine London

      Eating London Food Tour Review

      We have only recently discovered the joys of the bacon sandwich after it was served as a late night snack at our friend's Manchester wedding. We are now devout converts (we attempted to make our own by smuggling back English bacon) and this may be the pinnacle of bacon sandwiches.

      Award-winning St. John Bread & Wine specializes in "nose to tail eating" and takes pride in their unique products. Housed in what was once a bank, the place has perfected the air of casual elegance and you can tell that food is taken seriously. Once again, we followed in Anthony Bourdain's footsteps as he has called St. John his favorite restaurant.


      Website: www.stjohngroup.uk.com/spitalfields
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/stjohnbreadandwinespitalfield
      Twitter: @StJBW

      The English Restaurant

       
      Eating London Food Tour Review bread pudding

      Taking a giant leap in the other taste direction, we circled the market to one of the oldest restaurants in the East End. Simply named "The English Restaurant", this independent, family-owned restaurant is all re-claimed wood (from the nearby cathedral) and warm English favorites like the bread pudding with custard sauce. 


      Website: www.theenglishrestaurant.com
      Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-English-Restaurant/160184707326238
      Twitter: @EnglishRest

      Androuet London

       

      Eating London Food Tour Review cheese

      Eating London Food Tour Review cheese

      cheese on Eating London Food Tour Review

      Cheese please! Adding to our well-balanced meal of bacon and dessert, we visited the French mongers in the market. Has mold ever looked so beautiful? We ohhhed & awwed over each of the cheeses offered, served with a delectable companion like candied walnuts.

      After bringing home a load of cheddar from our Manchester trip (a-ok on EasyJet folks!), this time we brought home the wonder that is Stilton cheese and made many delightful things with it, including this pasta.

      Website: www.androuet.co.uk
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/androuetlondon
      Twitter: @AndrouetLondon

      Poppies Fish and Chips

       

      Eating London Food Tour Review fish & chips

      Eating London Food Tour Review poppies

      Poppies Fish and Chips

      This old-school charmer is the quintessential fish & chips shop. Listed as Time Out's top 100 foods in London, the small shop is decorated with kick-knacks from the 40s & 50s with Poppie himself seated at the counter. Nostalgically uniformed waiters brought us our meal of lightly breaded fish, frie-er, I mean chips and mushy peas. There is a reason why this dish has been adapted and served around the world. Not-at-all greasy, completely satisfying...if you can only eat at one fish and chips shop in London it should be this one.

      Note that this is easier said than done as the place was just starting to buzz around 11, but is slammed with locals and tourists in the evening hours. If you order a take-away, make use of the vinegar bottles strapped onto tables outside and check out the custom newspaper wrapping.


      Website: poppiesfishandchips.co.uk/restaurants/spitalfields/
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/PoppiesFishandChips
      Twitter: @popsfishnchips
      Pinterest: pinterest.com/popsfishnchips/
      YouTube: youtube.com/poppiesfishandchips

      The Pride of Spitalfield


      Eating London Food Tour Review beer

      Eating London Food Tour Review cat


      I've often heard Brits talk about their local and wondered what that would be like to have such a beery home. Nicole graciously invited us into hers off of Brick Lane and we sampled some ales including the returning favorite Trumans. Much like Germany's beer scene, English beer-lovers are recognizing that the giant international beer retailers don't cater to more unusual or local flavors. Thus - microbreweries are coming back. Yea Beer!

      For you non or light drinkers - fear not. This is only a little sampler like the other stops and not a full pint. You will have to save that for after the tour.

      Don't forget to greet the cat and look out for other pub cats around London.
      Google+: https://plus.google.com/117518739607539737693/about?gl=de&hl=en

      Aladin

       

       Eating London Food Tour Review Brick Lane


      Eating London Food Tour Review curry

      Eating London Food Tour Review Aladin'sFinally - Brick Lane! One of the most well known streets in all of London, this is the heart of the Bangladeshi-Sylheti community and world-famous for its many curry houses. The last time we came to London we stayed just off of the iconic street and witnessed first hand the fervor for the many different restaurants, fabulous markets and drunk frat-types that plague the streets later in the evening. We were happy to be back.

      Each shop proclaims it's curry to be the most decorated with loads of awards posted on their door. When we were shopping for where to eat, Ian carefully surveyed our options and chose Aladin's because it has been visited by Prince Charles (picture evidence -> ). Another plus of Aladin's & many of the curry houses is that you can bring your own booze, further diminishing the price of eating out. We ate and drank with abandon that night.

      And so we were surprised - but not - that the food tour took us back to Aladin's. Momentary disappointment that we weren't trying a new place was replaced with spicy love as curry dishes were placed before us. With three different levels of heat, our taste buds rejoiced after a long hibernation of German cuisine.

      Website: www.aladinbricklane.co.uk/
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/Aladin-Brick-Lane/107439632645638
      Twitter: @AladinBrickLane

      Brick Lane Beigel Bakery



      Eating London Food Tour Review bagel cop

      Eating London Food Tour Review bagel pickle

      Again we were disappointed - but not - that we visited a place we had been before. The legendary Brick Lane Beigel Bakery is the oldest bagel shop in London and one of the few signs of the Jewish immigrant group who passed through here. Not bearing much resemblance to the New York bagel, this hot salted beef sandwich with mustard is the nail in the coffin of any real hunger you are going to experience that day.

      Every guide book and local highly recommends you stop here, but one of the benefits of the tour is that you get to skip the line. Watch the bagel makers in back molding the dough, the register ching-chinging away and listen to all the many different accents of pepople in line.

      Time Out Write-Up: http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/brick-lane-beigel-bake

      Pizza East

      Eating London Food Tour Review salted carmel tart

      We waddled into our last stop and were immeaditly bowled over by the very hip industrial chic design. A pot of tea, salted caramel tart plus a seat allowed us to reflect on our day and ask any last-minute questions. The perfect topper to a whole day of decadence.

      Website: www.pizzaeast.com/
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/pizzaeast
      Twitter: @pizzaeast
      Instagram: instagram.com/PizzaEast

      East End History

      So that was food bit, but I would be so remiss if I didn't mention the loads of history that Nicole effortlessly packed into every moment we weren't stuffing our faces. Like a good teacher, she didn't even let on that were learning until we left the tour with heads brimming with facts. 

      Eating London Food Tour Review Jack the Ripper


      No need to take the Jack the Ripper Tour! Nicole told us about this site (now a parking garage) where one of his victims was found.


      East London skyscrapper
      The changing East End

      Eating London Food Tour Review Jewish history
      Another small reminder of the Jewish community

      Eating London Food Tour Review Irish history
      Evidence of the even briefer Irish occupation

      Eating London Food Tour Review Artillery Passage
      Artillery Passage
      Chic Woman East End London
      A glimpse down one of the most expensive streets in East End.

      Brick Lane East End graffiti
       No surprise to Berliners, graffiti is so hot right now. It is impossible to talk about the East End and Brick Lane without mentioning it and so Nicole points out some highlights, but I don't know that I would recommend the graffiti tours we saw everywhere that were drowning with people. Eating London Food Tour Review East End graffiti


      Eating London Food Tour Details

      How can you purchase tickets? Bookings must be made in advance, online. Pick an available date from the calendar on the right and get foodie fantasizing.

      Where? The tour meets daily at 10am (except on Sundays) at Spitalfield market (London’s oldest) and ends by the Shoreditch Street Tube stop.

      How long? The tour is listed at 3.5-4 hours and despite our constant lolly-gagging and picture taking, Nicole got us in right around the 4 hour mark. Her patience and professionalism never left us feeling rushed as she kept us on track.

      How much food - really? We went to 8 actual destinations with 4 savory dishes, 2 sweet, 1 cheese course and 1 stop for a drink. We arrived hungry and our eyes occasionally betrayed us, trying to convince us we wanted more food. But our bellies told us differently, remaining pleasantly full throughout the 4-hour period. If you want to be piggie stuffed, this tour may not do it for you.

      How much walking? The tour includes a moderate level of walking which was just fine for us, would be completely doable for our parents (if leaving them a bit tired for the rest of the day) and definitely too-much for our 80+ year old grandparents. Perfect for walking off the many, many calories you will enjoy or knocking off a rich, elderly relative.

      How many people are in the tour? On our tour, there were just 4 of us which was wonderfully intimate. We met the couple from Linda's Other Life who were celebrating their anniversary in style - what a perfect gift! I see on the site that tours are limited to 12 so you are guaranteed a similarly personal tour.

      How much?£59 for adults, £50 for teens (13-17), £40 for kids (under 13).

      Honestly, this tour is above our pay grade. Not because it is not worth it (it totally is!), but because we are pretty legit poor folk. We were welcomed on the tour in the hopes we would spread the word. Though we didn't have to fork over the money, our opinions are completely our own. Like we could keep them to ourselves....

      If you can afford a fancy meal in London, scratch that and take the tour! You get a variety of excellent places and dishes, comprehensive oral history and meet wonderful people.

      More FAQ on their site.

      drinking on German trains
      Pro Tip: Spitalfield market is also flush with great shops and stands including art, foods and cheap dresses (my personal weakness). I actually bought this skull sweater -> for £10 which has attracted much love even back in Germany.


      They love making connections so feel free to tag & connect on social networks:
      Twitter:@EatingLondon
      Facebook: www.facebook.com/eating london
      Pinterest: www.pinterest.com/eating london
      Google+: http://gplus.to/eating london
      Instagram: instagram.com/eatinglondon 
      London Food Blog: eatinglondontours.co.uk/blog/






      Even MORE pictures of the food and tour on our Facebook album, "Eating London Tour".

       Have you been on a food tour? Have you been on this tour? What did you like best?

      Falling out of Love with Berlin

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      Hipster Europe
      Usually I look at the "Berlin Hates You" signs and smile grimly, happy to have made it this far in a tough city to call home. But lately the message has been feeling a lot more personal.

      We originally moved to Berlin with something that can only loosely be called a plan. No jobs, no friends, no place to stay...we were young and dumb and thought it would work out and miraculously IT DID. We found jobs, Ian as a teacher and I wrote expat guides. We made friends. We traveled. We were happy and the city was our oyster.

      Then we returned home to Seattle, got married and - most bizarrely - decided to do the whole expat thing AGAIN in Berlin. We never claimed to be reasonable.

      I even got cocky and offered advice on moving to Berlin

      And then, in 2013, things began to unravel. We were nearing 3 years in Berlin (not counting the first year), thinking if we were going to step on the baby train we better start and then I got the bad news that my role as Content Editor was all but ending. I was going to be jobless with a limited visa and poor German skills in Berlin. I am no longer 23. I was freaking out man.

      Correction - I AM FREAKING OUT.



      girl on swing at night
      Feeling a little lost out here.
      This beautiful city that we love so much doesn't look nearly as wonderful with my new negative perspective. Suddenly the thousands of other talented expats scrambling to make it here are in sharp focus. While I have been sympathetic to struggling friends, I now see them as competitors for the very jobs I was applying for and wish they would just go home. My idle pastimes of reading sites like Gawker and XOJane have turned into torturous examples of how much smarter/prettier/just better everyone else is. I feel murderous, jealous rage for people I have never met before.

      There is a German word for this (of course there is):  eifersüchtig. It is actually a combination of bitterness, resentment and roots from the Hochdeutsch word Seht which means illness or disease which sounds completely accurate. I feel ill. 


      No matter that I know anyone faced with losing their job feels helpless and worthless, I feel these emotions completely. My chosen career of writing has become a club I hit myself with. As I feel more depressed I feel increasingly disinclined to write. But write I must....job applications, cover letters and pitches to publications who are flooded with similar clever ideas. 

      I tried interning, but slowly came to the realization that there was no work following this free labor - at least not for me. The position wasn't all bad, I desperately needed a shake-up in my writing, but I was getting no creditable pieces and simply couldn't figure out how to move on from the grunt work. I frequently felt like the stupidest person in the room, a crown I realize was handed around to all the interns. I started to have light panic attacks (I say light because they were short struggles with breathing before my rational mind wrestled it's way back into control) and existential questions of WHAT THE FUCK AM I DOING pounded through my skull at a much higher frequency than normal. Plus I was getting all this anxiety working for FREE, taking valuable time away from my job search. It wasn't necessarily a surprise as there have been many articles covering the terrible climate if many Berlin internships (The Local's 'If the internship is really bad, walk away' and Avant Hard in Berlin's All the truth about internships being just two examples.) I knew what I was getting into, but desperation can make you do crazy things. 


      I realize I am not without advantages - I have an education, experience and a crazy supportive and very helpfully employed husband. I know it could be worse. I put myself in this situation. No one ever asked me to move to Berlin (well, except Ian and it was really a joint plan). In addition to these positives I've got family and friends that have made it wonderfully clear how much they care about me during this crap patch. When I pissily complained on Facebook about rejection and broken boots support flooded in (ahhh! That's why we have Facebook). Also, both our parents gave us generous monetary gifts for the holidays that we are using to pay student loans (yea. but seriously - thanks guys.)

      And I realize it is not Berlin's fault. But it is no lie that when your personal situation isn't so rosy it is easy to blame it on the location. I'll just re-read my list of favorite things in Berlin while I have some free time.

      I told Ian not bother reading this post and he got all concerned. Don't worry, I am not going to jump off our building quite yet. And if you don't take my advice sir, NOTHING TO SEE HERE. Really - don't worry. I am doing you a favor, giving you a break from my constant anxiety and sharing it with strangers. Misery loves company amirite?

      If you do take pity and want to hire me, I won't mind. In fact, if you are reading this when it is published - I am in an interview right now. Hopefully, I am killing it. Hopefully, they are realizing they can't operate without me and want to offer me lots of money. Hopefully, very soon, Ian and I will look like this.


      In the meantime, I'll be writing...applications, cover letters and pitches. And working on falling back in love with Berlin.

      10 Things Berlin has Taught Me

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      If I got you down with my last post - sorry about that! I've been feeling down while looking for work and seriously felt my love for this amazing city wane a bit. But - sorry parents - that doesn't mean we're going home.

      We came to Berlin to chew bubblegum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubblegum.


      10 Things Berlin has taught me
      Our kiez: Wedding*


      10 Things Berlin has Taught MeOn that note, here is what Berlin has given me with an appropriate soundtrack:
      1. How to run with an open beer. Usually for the Ubahn, sometimes just for fun.
      2. Wear layers. Summer. Fall. Winter. Always.
      3. I can drink with the big leagues. I suspected, but now I know. 
      4. Learning a foreign language simply by being here doesn't work. I need to actually try.
      5. Reality TV might not be real, but it is fun to be on.
      6. Getting naked at the German sauna did not cause my eyeballs to fall out, despite the number of naked old people bits observed. 
      7. I can write. If I had never been pushed out of comfortable desk jobs, maybe I would have never tried to make a go of writing for a living. Besides EasyExpat, look for my work soon appearing as a co-blogger on the German-Way, The Frisky and as the new expert at about.com's Germany Travel.
      8. You don't always need to be polite. Seattle passive-aggressiveness has no place in Germany and I am (mostly) the better for it. 
      9. 10 Things Berlin has Taught MeI ate blood and I liked it. In fact, I've eaten many things I would have never expected to like in Germany and enjoyed (except for Sülze - Germs can keep that for themselves).
      10. I can make friends as an adult. And even though they may leave the city, we're friends for life. 
      *I took these pictures yesterday after a casual cafe visit with a German friend. So easy, so beautiful....there is so much to love about this city. I need to remember that.




        For more general wonderfulness about Germans themselves and life in Germany, check out Liv Hambrett's "What I Know About Germans" now a book in conjunction with Überlin!




        The U2 UBlau

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        Once again, we took to Berlin's UBahn to drink and rate our way through an entire line's stations, simultaneously horrifying and amusing our fellow passengers. It's fun for everyone.

        Drinking Tour if Berlin UBahn


         The Team:

        Along with us, the Engs and our two brave Americans from the last ride, we added two new Americans, promising that we had all made it out alive before.



        UBlau U7
         

        The drink:

        The choice of booze and shot glass is up to participants and while we stuck with our trusty Jägermeister, the other Americans chose whiskey, Jäger knock-off and a variety of small bottles. Ohhhh fancy!

        Drinking tour of the Berlin UBahnBerlin Ian Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        UBlau Plan & Rules:

        On this Ublau we covered one of the most popular lines, the U2. No - not the band - this Berlinmetro line consists of 29 stations at a length of 20.7 kilometers (12.9 miles) and connects the remote Ruhleben terminal station with northern station Pankow. It hits many of the city highlights like eastern city centre Alexanderplatz, Potsdamer Platz, plus west city centres Wittenbergplatz and Zoologischer Garten. The route between Potsdamer Platz and Zoologischer Garten was the western section of the Stammstrecke, Berlin's first metro inaugurated in 1902. Alfred Grenander, a Swede, designed many of the stations between 1902 and 1930.

        For a Berlin metro map and transport info, refer to my post: Berlin - By Foot, By BVG, By Bike, By Car, By Boat, By Train, By Plane.


        The game plan:
        •  We get off at every station, take a pictures, & rate it.
        • A twosome takes a shot & a photo at each station. Creative poses encouraged!
        • At stops where there is an intersection, it's a social and everyone drinks.

        Onto the ratings! and if you like a soundtrack, Pharrel's Berlin version of "Happy".

        Kaiserdamm

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 2.5
        Hawkins 4
        Porter 4
        Jeff 5
        ebe 4
        Alex 3
        Kate 3
        Chuck 5

        Average score:3.8125

        Starting on the ring before working our way to the end station of Ruhleben had us begin at Kaiserdamm. As we were majority American, there was some tardiness and feet were cold before we even got started. No matter - drinking will warm us! First social and our attempt at a nice group photo. 

        The station is split into 2 tracks so if you come up on the wrong side, you have to take the stairs under the tracks to find your platform = negative points. On the positive side, Jeff was sentimental and gave it positive points for being the first stop. The old softy.

        On a historical note, the station was originally opened in 1908 and went through a period of name changes, including the unpopular choice of Adenauerdamm (after unpopular chancellor of West Germany Adenauer) which resulted in protests.

        Theodor-Heuss-Platz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn


        Kirstie 4
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 4
        Jeff 6
        ebe 5.5
        Kate 6.5
        Alex 6
        Chuck 6

        Average score:5.375

        In preparation of the Superbowl, there was much talk about the Seahawks and (American) football. Chuck & Jeff embraced that while a young German child looked on. I promised we would entertain.

        While another double rails and truly ugly brown and yellow color scheme brought the scores down,  a recent Google mistake using an old name for the station "Adolf-Hitler-Platz" brought interest back up.

        Neu-Westend


        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn


        Kirstie 5
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 5
        Jeff 4
        ebe 5
        Kate 6
        Alex 4
        Chuck 4

        Average score:4.75

        Kirstie & Ian perfectly pulled off passing the baton for their pic, but may have jumped the gun a bit as this would have been perfect with the next stop. No matter, I though the wall decor looked a little moldy. Overall, meh.

        Olympia-Stadion

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn 

        Kirstie 4
        Hawkins 3.5
        Porter 4
        Jeff 8
        ebe 3
        Kate 3
        Alex 5
        Chuck 4

        Average score:4.3125

        We departed the UBahn into open air Olympiastadion station still partially frozen. Jeff noted that the platform was so empty we wouldn't be able to tell if it was a zombie apocalypse. While most of us were just chilled and unimpressed, Jeff made the excellent point that this station is special because of its proximity to the legendary Olympic Stadium where the 1936 Summer Olympics were held (aka where Jesse Owen defeated Hitler's Aryan athletes - whoa! Scratch that as this fascinating article points out that this is a popular myth).

        Ian honored the station by performing an Olympic feat by lifting me into the air. And I almost short-circuit our ride by temporarily losing the notebook....under my bag (refer to accurate facebook re-enactment).

        Ruhleben


        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn


        Kirstie 4.5
        Hawkins 3
        Porter 5
        Jeff 5
        ebe 4.5
        Kate 4
        Alex 5
        Chuck 3

        Average score:4.25

        The last stop on the line, only a few of us had ever been out here before. Apparently we weren't missing much. Outdoors with a steaming industrial plant, Alex and Kate showed off their plastic tea cups filled with liquor.

        Sophie-Charlotte-Platz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 8.5
        Hawkins 9
        Porter 7.5
        Jeff 8
        ebe 7
        Kate 7.5
        Alex 7
        Chuck 8

        Average score:7.8125

        After a short ride past the sections we already completed, we arrived at Sophie-Charlotte-Platz slightly warmed and ready to party. We were impressed with the twenty-six large paintings that showed the history of the subway before the First World War.

        Bismarckstraße

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 6.5 (5)
        Hawkins 6 (5)
        Porter 3 (4)
        Jeff 6 (5.5)
        ebe 5.25 (5.5)
        Kate 6.5
        Alex 4
        Chuck 4 (3)

        (Old Average score: 4.6666)

        Average score:5.1562

        On the last Ublau we actually visited this station's upper level (scores marked above in the parenthesis). Though this level had a bizarre rainforrest scene, it didn't rate much higher.

        Deutsche Oper

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 9
        Hawkins 7.5
        Porter 6
        Jeff 5
        ebe 6.5
        Kate 8
        Alex 5
        Chuck 7

        Average score: 6.75

        Impressive beams, a sculpted ceiling and a look Kate described as "very New York City" had us "ohhing" at this station, but no "ah" for the opera station. I have a feeling we would have been more impressed had we known that the tiles that were a present from the Portuguese ambassador in Berlin and the station was in Rammstein's music video for Mein Teil as well as Run Lola Run. This station is known for a gruesome fire during the 2000 Love Parade which injured 21. It re-opened later that year in a renovated 1906 style.

        Ernst-Reuter-Platz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn
         
        Kirstie 4.5
        Hawkins 3.5
        Porter 5.5
        Jeff 5
        ebe 4.5
        Kate 5.5
        Alex 3
        Chuck 3.5

        Average score: 4.375

        Chuck described this look as "bottom of pool". Drowning in blue tile, we gave it a jump shot.

        Zoologischer Garten

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 3
        Hawkins 3
        Porter 4
        Jeff 9
        ebe 2.5
        Kate 4
        Alex 6
        Chuck 5

        Average score: 4.5625
        In a surprisingly logical move for our state, the Zoo called for a animal pose. I tried out Unicorn. Hawkins was a monkey... I'm at a loss for what others were trying. Bathroom break!

        This station is known for touristy stuff like the Zoo and Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche, as well as a much darker, seedy past once frequented by the likes Christiane F and Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo. 

        Wittenbergplatz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7
        Hawkins 4.5
        Porter 6
        Jeff 7
        ebe 6.75
        Kate 5
        Alex 2
        Chuck 6.5

        Average score: 5.5937

        We felt like we were behind bars here and that inspired us to pose like a tough soccer team...obviously.

        If we had made it to the entrance, I suspect we would have been impressed with its grandiose Art Nouveau entrance. It is one of the oldest U-Bahn stations in Berlin, opened on 11 March 1902. We also didn't notice the sign donated by London Transport (distinctive round, red and blue style) in 1952 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the U-Bahn.

        Nollendorfplatz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn    Kirstie 3.5
           Hawkins 5
           Porter 6
           Jeff 7
           ebe 8
           Kate 6
           Alex 7
           Chuck 3

           Average score: 5.6875 

        Our first remarks of "smells like farts" quickly changed as I realized I could clamber up on the vending machine. The worst security guard (which you never see on the UBahn) walked right by while I was on machine. We will never know if he was deliberately not looking or really that bad at his job.

        I was also pleased that as this station is above ground with glass walls and art nouveau dome which allows you to observe your surroundings such as the Siegessäule or "chick on a stick". Opened in 1902, this is the only station in Berlin that is served by four metro lines. This was one of my favorite stations, but sadly my fellow riders didn't agree.

        Bülowstraße


        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn GIF


        Kirstie 6
        Hawkins 6
        Porter 7
        Jeff 7
        ebe 7.75
        Kate 6.5
        Alex 6
        Chuck 3

        Average score: 6.1562

        Once again, this beautiful old station features the art nouveau style and an above ground plan. Heavily damaged by air raids and the Battle of Berlin, the station was rebuilt after World War II. The station was also featured in the god-awful film, Unknown. Negative points.

        Gleisdreieck

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 8.5 (7)
        Hawkins 9.5 (7)
        Porter 8 (8)
        Jeff 8
        ebe 9 (7.5)
        Kate 8.5
        Alex 7
        Chuck 6

        (Old Average score: 7.375)
        Average score: 8.0625

        Once again, this is a two level station that we had rated before but this time it was even more beautiful because of the snow and setting sun. I think we all regretted our last low scores.

        Not so lovely is a moment in this station's history: a major accident occured on September 26, 1908, when two trains collided. One car derailed and fell from the viaduct, killing 18 people and injuring 21. Another interesting factual tidbit is that the building of Berlin Wall resulted in the  lower platform becoming the eastern terminus of the U2. Service didn't resume until November 13, 1993.

        Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 2
        Hawkins 3.5
        Porter 5
        Jeff 6.5
        ebe 3
        Kate 2
        Alex 6
        Chuck 3

        Average score: 3.875

        What a name! Apparently it is after the park at the east of the building named in honor of the composer Felix Mendelssohn. Clearly the station itself  did little to impress.

        Potsdamer Platz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7
        Hawkins 5.5
        Porter 6
        Jeff 7
        ebe 6
        Kate 5.5
        Alex 4
        Chuck 6

        Average score: 5.875

        One of the most famous stations on the line also did little to impress us. Luckily we were all feeling pretty chummy at this point and Alex said, "Conversation a 10, but station a 4".

        More interesting than the serviceable station is the place above. Potsdamer Platz, painfully nicknamed "The Platz to be" (oof), is a site of major redevelopment and was supposed to be the new Berlin business center. It has mostly been a bust, but is still a fascinating point in Berlin's developing history

        Mohrenstraße


        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn


        Kirstie 8
        Hawkins 7.5
        Porter 7
        Jeff 7.5
        ebe 5
        Kate 5.5
        Alex 7
        Chuck 6.5

        Average score: 6.75

        Ian and Kirstie embody "not feeling it", but they are lying as we all found the station basically pleasant. First named Kaiserhof and then Thälmannplatz (after communist leader Ernst Thälmann), this station is all red limestone often rumored to be from the interior of Adolf Hitler's Reich Chancellery. Decide for yourself whether you believe.

        Stadtmitte

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7.5
        Hawkins 4.5
        Porter 6.5
        Jeff 6.5
        ebe 5.75
        Kate 5.5
        Alex 5
        Chuck 7

        Average score: 6.0312

        We were all pretty zen at this point. Zen is another word for drunk, isn't it? The most interesting note I found about this station was that the platforms connecting to the pedestrian underpass are colloquially called Mäusetunnel ("mice tunnel"). 

        Hausvogteiplatz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 5
        Jeff 7
        ebe 4
        Kate 5.5
        Alex 4
        Chuck 6

        Average score: 5.4375

        I was pretty sure I could do a handstand without flashing everyone. I was wrong. Lightening bolt save!

        Named for the square that has served as city fortification and center of 19th century Berlin's clothing industry, the station has images of the area throughout history.

        Spittelmarkt

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7.5
        Hawkins 4
        Porter 6.5
        Jeff 7
        ebe 6
        Kate 7.5
        Alex 7
        Chuck 6.5

        Average score: 6.5

        The blues of this station reference its location on the Spree. Daylight windows display the river and the official theme is "Berlin and water".

        Märkisches Museum

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 7.5
        Hawkins 8
        Porter 8
        Jeff 7.5
        ebe 9
        Kate 8
        Alex 8
        Chuck 5.5

        Average score: 7.6875

        The video of Ian (fake?) falling off the sign is almost as amazing as the picture. Great teamwork y'all!

        The station has an impressive vaulted hall and is one of only U-Bahn stations (besides Platz der Luftbrücke) with no central columns. There are twelve mosaics created for the 750th anniversary of Berlin by the GDR government. Exploring the theme "the history of Berlin", there are maps of Berlin from its beginnings as the twin towns of Berlin and Cölln in 1237 to when the murals were put up in 1987 (when it was still East Berlin). Each mosaic is constructed from building materials like stone cobbles, stone, brick, marble, cement, etc.

        Klosterstraße

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn GIF

        Kirstie 10
        Hawkins 8.5
        Porter 8
        Jeff 8.5
        ebe 9.5
        Kate 7
        Alex 7
        Chuck 7.5

        Average score: 8.25  


        Ian continued the monkey theme from the Zoo and ran wild around the station. I think we all kinda lost our minds here as we accidentally operated this UBlau at a near run. The sub-zero temperatures (one of the coldest days of the year) had us ripping through the stations (and shots) at warp speed.

        The station has been well-preserved and received protected landmark status in 1975. We made good use of the historic A-I type car of the U4 line at the northern end of the platform.

        Alexanderplatz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 8
        Hawkins 7
        Porter 7.5
        Jeff 6.5
        ebe 6.5
        Kate 6.5
        Alex 10
        Chuck 8.5

        Average score: 7.5625 

        Located at the center of the city's transport, this is one of the busiest transport hubs in the Berlin area and impossible to avoid. It is also one of the largest stations serving the U2, U5 and U8, four Regional-Express and Regionalbahn lines, S-Bahn lines S5, S7 and S75, as well as four ground level tram lines and five bus lines.

        Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 5
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 5
        Jeff 4
        ebe 4.5
        Kate 4
        Alex 4
        Chuck 5

        Average score: 4.5625

        "DRUNK," I wrote in the notebook. Astute observation ebe. Luckily, it is life saving work they do at Dolores. Much TexMex was eaten.

        This monotone yellow station was named after the German revolutionary communist, Rosa Luxemburg. A martyr for the cause, one of her best known quotes is
        "Freedom is always the freedom of the one who thinks differently."
        (Freiheit ist immer Freiheit der Andersdenkenden).

        Senefelderplatz

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 2
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 4.5
        Jeff 10
        ebe 3.5
        Kate 3
        Alex 4
        Chuck 8.5

        Average score: 5.0625

        A station of grey & white tiles (yawn) that Kate and Alex enliven with a moving UBahn background.

        Eberswalder Straße

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 5.5
        Hawkins 5
        Porter 7
        Jeff 10
        ebe 8
        Kate 6
        Alex 4
        Chuck 10

        Average score: 6.9375

        Charming us all, Ian & Kirstie do the Titanic pose (with instructions from Kate). Little do they know Leo & Jonah Hill will do the same thing on SNL hours later. Trend-setters!

        This raised station sits at the heart of schmancy Prenzlauer Berg within steps of legendary Currywurst stand, Konnopke. If we had a million dollars and reality shows weren't fake, we could have lived right here in Berlin apartment #3 on House Hunters International.

        Schönhauser Allee

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn


        Kirstie 5
        Hawkins 4.5
        Porter 6.5
        Jeff 9
        ebe 3
        Kate 6
        Alex 6
        Chuck 6.5

        Average score: 5.8125

        Huddling for warmth in this very busy above ground station, on an average day approximately 500 trains and more than 26000 people cross these grounds.

        Vinestrasse

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn
        Kirstie 2
        Hawkins 4.5
        Porter 6.5
        Jeff 4 or 5
        ebe 5.5
        Kate 4.5
        Alex 3-4
        Chuck 5.5

        Average score: 4.625

        Once the northern terminus of the U2, it is a good thing we were nearing the end of the U2 UBlau.
        I am not impressed with my handwriting at this point. I wrote Jeff's name twice with different scores and I think I took a "3 to 4" rating from Alex. Our very professional ratings are approximate.

        We also picked up two German teens at this point. Beware kids!

        Pankow

        Drinking Tour of the Berlin U-Bahn

        Kirstie 4
        Hawkins 4.5
        Porter 5
        Jeff 5
        ebe 4
        Kate 6.5
        Alex 7
        Chuck 8

        Average score: 5.5

        On our last stop, we found ourselves in Pankow (where Ian & Chuck work). More than a little drunk, success was ours! Consider yourself done U2.

        Overall Scores

         

        Top 3 Stations of Berlin's U2 Line


        3rd Highest Score:
        Sophie-Charlotte-Platz 7.8125

        2nd Highest Score:
        Gleisdreieck 8.0625

        Best Station on Berlin's U2 Line:
        Klosterstrasse at 8.25


        Highest Ranked Berlin station

        Heidelberger Platz at 9.125






        Agree with our rankings? Think we're idiots? Want to participate? All of the above? Tell us about it with a comment below! 

        PICTURES of the stations & more UBlau

        Learn more about Berlin's transport system in our post:
        Or check out our previous rides: UBlau U1/U3 and U7

        Berlin Photo Booths

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        Berlin Photo BoothsLooking for something to do on Valentine's Day is always a challenge. Not one for fine dining or flowers, I am usually on the hunt for something more unique, or even a little weird.

        This year, while I was contemplation my options and lack of funds, I came up with a semi-genius idea: a self-guided tour of the nearest Berlin Photoautomats. Cheap (2 for a 4 shot pic strip), a chance to explore the neighborhood and some ridiculous keepsake photos. I love a random Berlin adventure.

        And Berlin is littered with Photo Booths (or Photoautomats), which is hardly surprising given the high hipster density. I had no idea how many until I asked the all-knowing Berlin Twittersphere,




        I was almost immediately answered by resident all-things-Berlin expert, Digital Cosmonaut. He has been tirelessly working his way through the 111 unusual places to see in Berlin and had covered this very subject with his post, 111 Places in Berlin – Nr 88: The Black and White Fotoautomat (Check out his wonderful pictures and history lesson!).

        @deutschbitte also pointed me to a map from photoautomat.de which helps identify many of the locations, with Digital Cosmonaut once again chiming in that if you are looking for a photo booth, "Kreuzberg has a very high density of them. They gravitate to the Hipster Center - like planets around the Sun."

        We opted to visit the ones near us in the neighborhoods of Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg. Plenty of hipsters and photo booths to go around.
        Tour of Berlin Photo Booths
        Our path through the Photoautomats in Mitte / Prenzlauer Berg



        Cosmonaut also added that:
        • The one on Prenzlauer Allee is poorly maintained
        • The color machine is very very slow
        • The ones on Schönhauser Allee 9 and Oranienburger are are gone
        @RS_5150 also offered that there are more Kauperts machines at http://berlin.kauperts.de/Adressen/Fotoautomat/F.

        Thanks for all the info Twitter dudes! On to the picture taking...

        Berlin Photo Booth at ACUDkunsthaus


        Tour of Berlin Photo Booths

        Berlin Photoautomat
        "You are Beautiful"
        First up was the booth off of Rosenthaler Platz, just in front of the music/theatre venue of ACUDkunsthaus and next to
        Volkspark am Weinbergsweg. Located on what seems like a quiet side street, this is a happening little spot.

        As we contemplated our first poses, another couple - complete with roses - appeared. Apparently they go to this photo booth almost every week. They let us go first as they prepared signs to use in their photos.

        Pro tip: Signs are a genius idea! They also informed us that as soon as you put your money in the timer begins, so be ready. This seems obvious, but we saw no fewer than 3 groups fail to do this properly on our tour.

        Ranking:

        ebe - 7.5/10. Great location that is quiet enough to contemplate your poses but easy to get to. The helpful graffiti also pumps up your self-esteem. We kept our coats on for this one which led to a lot of black in the final product. 

        Ian - 8.5/10. Nice location with the park on one side and the Fernsehturm looming beyond.

        Address: 

        Veteranenstraße 21, 10119 Berlin-Mitte


        Berlin Photo Booth on Kastanienallee


        Berlin Photo Booth on Kastanienallee

        Interior of a Berlin Photo boothNext stop took us to every-trendy Kastanienallee. It was fun to be out on Valentine's and see the dining and wining couples without actually having to take part in it. The whole experience was quite voyeuristic - perfect for the holiday.

        This booth was actually two machines facing each other with the one on the left creating photos that run horizontal while the one on the right produces a vertical strip. Heavy traffic made it a bit awkward to stand in front of. "Yes, hello! We're busy taking pictures of ourselves".

        Ranking:

        ebe - 8.5/10. We accidentally took picture on the horizontal side. Shite.  It was also a bit confusing when your pictures are up. Each machine is supposed to take about 5 minutes, but this one was kinda stuck up in the machine so I had to fish it out. I did love the look of the dual machines and this machine had the best quality pics.

        Ian - 8. I liked the look the best, the 2 machines coming together in a point. Bonus point for being right next to Prater Biergarten.


        Address:  

        Kastanienallee 9, 10435 Prenzlauer Berg




        Berlin Photo Booth in Kulturbraurei

        Berlin Photoautomat KulturbraureiLocated in another hipster hot spot of old brewery turned theatre/club/shop space, this booth is heavily frequented by groups of young giggly teens...and us. Formerly located in Dresden, this bright pink transplant is tucked away by the grocery store entrance.

        Ranking:

        ebe - 7/10. We brought out some props for this shoot and I filmed as we made our poses which was pretty complicated for my little brain. No matter - it was fun.

        Ian - 7/10. Nothing special except for its location in the location in the Kulturbraurei.


        Address:  

        In the Hof at Kulturbraurei - Schönhauser Allee 36, 10435 Prenzlauer Berg

        Berlin Photo Booth
        Kulturbraurei


        Berlin Photo Booth on Schönhauser Allee


        Berlin Photo Booth on Schönhauser AlleeJust a short walk from Schönhauser Allee, this booth is neatly tucked into the wall so you could miss it if you weren't looking...and there weren't several groups waiting. I was so surprised that every booth we went to had people using it before or after us - or both. I wonder what kind of revenue these things generate?

        Ranking:

        ebe - 5/10. Luckily, the wait was quite short and allowed us to plan our next moves. The recent Seahawk Superbowl victory led us to a questionable football theme. We enacted the Richard Sherman face-smash, a tackle and held up a 12 for 12th man. However, we forgot the camera would inverse the image so we look like we're holding up a 21. Yet another whoops.

        Ian - 6.5/10. Stuck between shops, this stop once again allowed for us to interact with another Valentine's couple. Two teens straight from the Berlin suburbs, they were not the brightest bulbs. Thanks for the entertainment kiddos.


        Address:  

        Schönhauser Allee 63, 10435 Prenzlauer Berg


        Tips on Berlin Photoautomats

        Despite our many mistakes, this was a great night and one of my favorite Valentine's to date. We did learn a few things about using a Berlin photo booth so I'll pass on our new-found knowledge here:
        • Be ready to take your picture when you put the money in. You have about 10 seconds. Pose, hold, SNAP!
        • Bring coins. There is no opportunity to change money on the machines.
        • Plan your poses. While every dumb photo can be sentimental (magic of the photoautomat!), a little planning (like signs or confetti) add some serious pizazz to your photos. Our not particularly inventive poses included: glasses on the back of our head, kiss, attacking each other, reacting in horror and beach smiles.
        • Images are inversed. Plan according.
        • Most pictures are produced in under 5 minutes. Be patient, and then fish around in there in case it got caught. 
        • If you don't have access to the handy photoautomat.de map, follow the hipsters.

        Tour of the Berlin Photo booths
        Our Valentine's Photoautomat Photos



         Have an update on a machine? Leave a comment!

        Day trip to Brandenburg an der Havel

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        Our conflicting issues of never ending wanderlust and near poverty mean we make a lot of compromises. While we dream of trying not to break ourselves on the ski slopes of the Czech Republic, we settle for a day trip anywhere out of Berlin. And if anywhere looks like this ---------------->
        we have no right to complain.

        Brandenburg an der Havel is a medieval town located about an hour away from Berlin (about 60 kilometers west) by train and lies in the state of Brandenburg on the River Havel - hence the name. A quiet village with a rich history and many historical sites, the town was the ideal day trip from Berlin.

        Attractions in Brandenburg an der Havel

        Daytrips from Berlin

        The town is legit old with a 1,000+ year history. Though partially destroyed in the 30 Year War, WWII and during Nazi occupation, historic buildings are plentiful. For most of our visit we simply wandered the city.

        Access the city map here.

        Daytrips from Berlin
        Steintorturm

        All I need to say is "walled city" and Ian is a go. Brandenburg has most of its medieval walls plus four (of the original 10) preserved watchtowers, such as Steintorturm pictured above. The tower is available to tour in the summer months, but was sadly closed when we visited this winter.

        Daytrips from Berlin

        The Plauer Torturm, named for the fishing village of Plaue an der Havel, has animal heads inserted into the stone and strange animal plaques among the cobblestones.

        Daytrips from Berlin
        Soviet Memorial in Brandenburg an der Havel

        You can trip over a Soviet memorial almost anywhere in Eastern Europe. Brandenburg an der Havel is no exception. The bridge attached to Steintorturm was the site of a fierce battle during WWII and is commemorated with a Soviet memorial and graveyard.


        Daytrips from Berlin

        A 15 minute walk from the train station took us onto Dominsel where the majority of the altstadt lies. Altstädtisches Rathaus (Old Town Hall) is a late Gothic brick building with a 5.35m statue of the knight Roland erected in 1474.

        Pro tip: there is a public bathroom and tourist office just off the square.



        While looking for a place to picnic on an unseasonably warm winter day, we were enticed by this bad ass pirate-themed playground. The sea serpent snake ride almost conquered us, but we eventually got it moving. (Refer to the snake ride in the video at the bottom).


        Of course it wouldn't be a German town without a nod to the Nazis. The town was the site of a large camp focused on forced euthanasia for the mentally disabled, Brandenburg Euthanasia Centre or NS-Tötungsanstalt Brandenburg. Today, a small but concise museum covers the disturbing history.


        Daytrips from Berlin

        After walking all day, the German tradition of kaffee und kuchen called. This retro site, Cafe Rosenhag, answered with Milchkaffee, Heiße Schokolade and Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake).

        Daytrips from Berlin

        As this is just the highlghts of our day in the city, a comprehensive list of attractions in Brandenburg an der Havel can be of service is you are planning a day out (German).
         
        We've met expats who don't won't to leave the city for a day in fear of missing out. It is true that there is ALWAYS something happening in Berlin, but that can be exhausting for olds like us. We are still firmly in the hauptstadt's clutches, but a walk around a small German town with friends proved more than enough to entertain...especially with the help of some Schultheissfor the ride home.


        Daytrips from Berlin
        Schultheiss  & Friends




        Berlin's Asian Market: Dong Xuan Center

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        Berlin Asian Market
        Sometimes called Berlin’s ‘Vietnamese mall’, the Dong Xuan Center was originally run and frequented by East Berlin's expat Vietnamese community. It is now a recommended Berlin destination complete with guided tour groups.

        The internet had promised us that this compound of warehouses would fulfill all of our Asian food needs on the cheap. As Seattleites, we are used to a high level of Thai and Vietnamese food and Germany's attempts (although infinitely better than when we arrived in 2007) are generally disappointing. We hoped the (fun-to-say) Dong Xuan Center would offer us the tools, ingredients and cheap eats we were looking for.

        We stepped off the bus with really no idea what we were getting into. As we approached the gates, I realized we were in for something so much weirder than a shopping trip.

        Located just past Friedrichshain in Lichtenberg, you enter beneath the red and yellow sign beside the Hitler-mustached advertisement. Passing through a large parking lot, several massive metal hangars lie in front of you.You enter through strips of hard plastic sheeting and find a colorful world of fake flowers, nail salons, hair salons (filled with older German gentleman when we were there), clothing stores with nary a natural fiber and -finally- some markets.

        As we were there for the food, we bee-lined to the markets and marveled at the massive bags of spices and noodles, fruits we'd never seen before, live carp and even our much-missed black beans.

        Berlin Asian Market

        Berlin Asian Market

        Though impressive, I was surprised that the prices for things that we can commonly find in Berlin like Sriracha were higher than usual. While the options are plentiful, the place isn't the haven of low prices we had been promised. Considering its popularity with foreigners like us, maybe we've ruined it like so many things in the city.

        What was more of a highlight were the shrines in the shops and insane clothing and knick-knacks. We simply gazed in wonder as we wandered in awe through the stores.


        Berlin Asian Market

        Berlin Asian Market

        Berlin Asian Market

        A meal of pho after a day of shopping was also only partially satisfying. An over-sized bowl was only 6 euros and had a few tasty add-ins, but even-worse-than-usual service and an odd beef didn't do it for me. We also saw one of the giant carps get straight-up murdered and diced before our eyes which may have also played a part in subduing my appetite. Fascinating and horrifying.


        Tips for Visiting Dong Xuan Center:

        • Dress warm in winter. These cavernous halls are quite cool and as you walk between the buildings a chill can set in. 
        • Beware the crowds. While it was fine on a Saturday in February, I heard this place can be a hot, sticky, crowded mess one summer weekends.
        • Know your deals. While some things are a great price or hard to find elsewhere, you may find a better deal at your local Turkish, African or even local Asian shop.
        • Buy a statement piece. We bought a giant beach towel with a snarling tiger on it. I love it, but kinda wish I had bought one of those hats. 

         


        Dong Xuan Center

        Herzbergtraße 128–139
        10365 Berlin-Lichtenberg
        Transport: Storkower Straße
        Open: Mon–Sunday 9–21 (Closed on Tuesday)

        Want more? As with most things in Berlin, others have been here and beautifully documented before:

        More pictures of the Dong Xuan Center

        Berlin's Allied Museum

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        Allied Museum in Germany
        We hadn't planned on visiting the Allied Museum. It is located by the American embassy all the way down in Dahlem and we had never even been that far south except on the U3 Ublau.

        But then a friend visited at Christmas, was surprised by his wife at the airport, and promptly lost his passport. It was a bit of a roller coaster.

        Impromptu visit of the American Embassy at Christmas time!

        We walked up to the embassy a bit glum, but interested in checking out the embassy. I took a picture as we approached and was reprimanded by the guards. We got to the entrance before our friends were admitted and we were told we would have to wait outside. In the middle of nowhere. In Dahlem. So much for the friendly American attitude....

        Luckily, Ian's knowledge of all things WWII is pretty terrifying and he guided us to the nearby Allied Museum. It being near Christmas, the place was deserted - ideal for Ian to get his war knowledge on.

        Allied Museum in Germany plane

        The complex has a watchtower, piece of the Berlin Wall, a British plane and even the original Checkpoint Charlie station.

        Allied Museum watch tower in Berlin

        Checkpoint Charlie station at the Allied Museum
        Original Checkpoint Charlie station

        However, the real treasure lies inside. Located in an old American movie theater, the museum documents the roles of the Western Allies in Berlin between 1945 and 1994 with extensive displays and changing special exhibits. The focus is on the Berlin Airlift and the Cold War and the American perspective is a bit different from many museums in Berlin.


        Inside the Allied Museum in Berlin

        Allied Museum in Germany propoganda

        tunnel at Allied Museum in Germany
        Display of tunnel escape

        Supposedly there are some plans to re-locate to Tempelhof Park where the Berlin Airlift Memorial is, but for now you have to make the trek to check out the museum.

        AlliiertenMuseum Berlin - Allied Museum - Musée des Alliés

        Address: Clayallee 135, 14195 Berlin
        Tel: 030 8181 ext. 990
        Hours: 10:00 - 18:00
        Admission: FREE

        For more free museums in Berlin,

        Best Free Museums in Berlin

         

        Day trip to Pfaueninsel

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        Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), GermanyOur first year in Berlin we traveled all over Germany. We loved train travel and getting to know small-town Germany. This time around, we have discovered the wonders of budget air travel and have been able able to go a bit further afield (but still just in Europe).

        But a little bit of cash poor means that we have shrunk our circle of travel to day trips around Berlin. This isn't a bad compromise considering there are hundreds of places within just a few hours of Berlin. We've been canoeing in the Spreewald, to a "tropical island" and a Berlin Garden House. Next on the list: the rural attractions of Pfaueninsel.

        In my new gig as Germany Travel Guide for about.com, I was disappointed to see the site was already written about by the previous guide. I need to make these fun times count people! But really, there was little to be disappointed in. The weather was brilliant, we were enjoying one of our last days with an expat couple that have become our best fiends abroad and Pfaueninsel was the perfect place for an almost springtime wander.

        Once the romping grounds of King Friedrich Wilhelm II, this quiet island on Wannsee is a well-known warm weather getaway. We weren't alone as we struggled to find a parking space and make our way through the woods to the lake. I wondered what could attract all this people on one of the first nice days in the dwindling winter. 


        Peacock Island details Germany

         castle on Peacock Island, Germany

        Peacocks on Pfaueninsel, Germany
        The island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, rustically preserved. The buildings are all random grandeur among the greens and peeling paint. It is an odd juxtaposition, strangely beautiful.

        The island is named "Peacock Island" for the many that call the place home, but the only birds we saw were in the aviary. Several luminous peacocks made their terrible cat screams as chickens strutted around the yard.

        What we saw more of is the working farm. Sheep, a couple ponies and gorgeous old barns were interspersed with the grand castles and temples.

        Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), Germany

        Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), Germany

        animals on Pfaueninsel (Peacock Island), Germany

        Spring on Peacock Island, Germany

        The first signs of spring, of Berlin shaking off its winter coat, reminded me of why we love it here. I wouldn't say Pfaueninsel is a must-see or an overly exciting day out, but it is lovely. It has the quiet grandiosity you see so many Berlin escapees looking for.

        Ferry to Peacock Island


        Information for Visiting Pfaueninsel

        This royal island paradise is pristine with no dogs, cars or smoking allowed. Kids, however, are plentiful.


        The site is reachable by car or S-Bahn & bus (about 1 hour journey either way). Take the train S1 or S7 towards Potsdam, get off at Wannsee station, and then take bus 218. Guide to Berlin transport.

        To reach the island, a tiny ferry (3 return) takes you on a two minute journey across. It literally takes longer to buy the ticket. Operating hours of the ferry: November till February: Mon - Sun: 10am - 4pm; March and October: Mon - Sun: 9am - 6pm; April and September: Mon - Sun: 9am - 7pm; Mai and August: Mo - So: 8am - 9pm

        Pfaueninsel Adresse: Am Ende der Pfaueninselchaussee, 14109  Berlin 
        Pfaueninsel Website: http://www.spsg.de/schloesser-gaerten/objekt/pfaueninsel/
        or http://www.visitberlin.de/en/spot/pfaueninsel-and-pfaueninsel-palace (English)

        For more history of the island, SlowBerlin's William Thirteen did a nice write-up.

        Berlin Street Food Markets: Bite Club & Markthalle IX

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        Ian is in the habit of familiarity. If he's cooking dinner I can guess the meal is going to be Mexican and if we are going to eat out in Berlin he has his stable of favorites. I am different.

        I am constantly searching out new places to try and imagining what I will order before even get in the door. I was on such a troll on one of my favorite Berlin sites, www.stilinberlin.de, when I came across a recommendation for Berlin Bite Club. Relatively new to the trendy Berlin food scene, Stil in Berlin reported,
        "Though it offers some of the same chefs and dishes as you’ll be familiar with from Street Food Thursdays, the vibe is decidedly cooler; there less cute kids running around, for one. Instead, I saw club kids, tattooed beautiful people, DJs on their afternoon off, a distillation of Friedrichshain and Panorama Bar that provided a great contrast to the occasionally intimidating young beach bodies on display at the Badeschiff next door."

        swimming pool Spree river Berlin
        I was sold. And with some pointing at pictures of tacos, burgers, and 3 euro meals Ian was convinced as well. 

        Berlin's Bite Club


        Picturesquely located on the Spree, the site is sandwiched between fabulous Berlin sites like the Fernsehturm, Oberbaumbrücke, Badeschiff and Molecule man.

        You pass by Arena and through a huge pile of stacked railcards to enter.  A small circle of food trucks and stands surround the site with bleachers and a stage at the far end.








        Berlin BiteClub food market


        Berlin BiteClub food stand

        In the river - sits a boat. I've eyed this boat for years. Appearing derelict on the Spree, this was our first time on it and it was whimsically classy. Nail painting was happening, multiple bars were just beginning to hum, and seating was available within the boat and up on top.



        The Food at Berlin's Bite Club


        Lets stop messing about and talk about the food.We came right at the opening time of 6pm as we had been warned of crowds and sold-out food. The place was just starting to get going with about 15-20 stands in various states of set-up and just a few visitors milling around. Excellent. They were selling everything from burgers to tacos to big slabs of meat and we were ready to eat.

        Ian went for his default favorite food of tacos at Taco Kween and I spied a delectable looking rundstueck for 3.50 at Rundstück Warm.

        My hunk of meat was served up by an orderly line of workers, sawing off a huge chunk of meat, adding a juicy pickle and tomatoes, and spooning fresh sauce over the meal. Best 3.50 ever spent? Possibly. It was tangy as the sauce followed the German pallet of sweet not spicy, but not cloyingly so. Not always my favorite as a sauce, it was just right here. Unfortunately, the bees loved it too and were all over it. I tired not to scream like a girl and ate quickly.

        Berlin street food market
        Bees & ebe approved

        Ian didn't fare quite as well. Though we have found a few Mexican places we love and have grown accustomed to making our own bizarre Mexi hybrids at home, Mexican food in Berlin mostly disappoints. Taco Kween was one of those (at least on this day). Ian paid 4.50 for 3 tacos and they were downright pathetic. The tortillas looked ok, but immeaditly fell apart and the meager offerings inside were little comfort. They actually served him the tacos, looked at it, then took some of the filling out! I know there have been issues with items selling out, but damn. This does not stand, man.


        Besides a prevalence of bees and some very sad tacos - we enjoyed.We had to hurry off to another event, but we could definitely spend more time munching through the lines.

        Bite Club Media:

        Bite Club Address:

        Eichenstrasse 4
        12435 Berlin Alt-Treptow

        Kreuzberg's Markthalle IX


        Interest sparked by Bite Club, we followed up on something we had been meaning to do all  summer - Eat at Street Food Thursday at the Markthalle IX. Also located in Kreuzberg, this eating event takes place in a beautiful old market hall and hosts what the event generously calls street food.

        Again, the options were enticing and varied. Much more fancy than your average doener (our usual street food), there was everything from empanadas to tapas to English pies. The stands here were more permanent than Bite Club with a Kantine providing fancy burgers, a refined wine bar, and a beer stand with Heidenpetersbrewed on the premise.

        Berlin market hall Germany


        rubber gloves window
        Add caption

        Street Food Berlin
        Boar anyone?



        English pies in Germany


        BBQ in Berlin Germany pulled pork sandwich


        bizarre sign gin canned fish


        Empanada in Germany

        BerlinIan eats


        It was so lovely to sit & chat, picking at a little bite here, having a glass of wine there, drinking more than a beer or two.  We eventually nibbled & sipped our way through
        • Pulled Pork Sandwich from Big Stuf Smoked BBQ (4.50 euro)
        • Empanada - pork & pepper (2ish euros)
        • New Zealand Steak Pie 
        • Berlin Balls - great name for meatballs in all flavors & sauces 
        • Käsespätzle from Heisser Hobel
        • Cider & Wine from Schöner Trinken
        • Beer from Heidenpeters 
         Food Run-Down: The  BBQ has been the talk of the town all summer and lived up to expectations. When we asked for spice, he supplied a little heat and the meat itself was juicy and flavorful with fresh apple slices really setting it apart. The empanada offers surprising heat and was one of the cheapest things available and hearty. I've had the spätzle from this food truck before and it delivers on total cuteness of vehicle and is about as fresh as cheese and pasta can get. If I was feeling daring I'd ask for more fired onions as they are a gift. 

        Alcohol Run-Down: Doing up the classy, drinks are served for grown-ups in proper glassware with pfandts (glass deposits) around 3 euro. We daintily tried some wines and picked a favorite. I had some cider that cooled me down in the rapidly heating environment (even as night fell, the influx of people had the place cooking by the end). 

        But most importantly, the beer was delicious! Slowly, so slowly, microbreweries are clawing their way back from the brink of death in Germany. This includes fine brews like Heidenpetersbrewed deeply in the belly of the premise. Three beers were on offer this night: a pale ale, and Indian ale, and a Chili Ale. Unique, delicious, and possibly the find of the night. 

        We saw them again at the craft brews festival and were delighted to try more of their offerings. 
        Berlin beer Heidenpeters brewery Germany

        While there are many, many things we would and could eat in the coming weeks, the only thing that we really missed was a decadent looking cheesecake. Inches of perfectly smooth and seductive cake perched atop a heavenly crust...we arrived too late to partake in that magic.

        It looks like these people missed out on the cheesecake too.

        We left the growing crowds to go chat down by the river. The city was simply at it's prettiest and an impromptu fireworks show seemed to seal in how truly special a "nothing big" night in the city can be.



        Street Food Thursday Media:

        Street Food Thursday Address & Hours:

        Eisenbahnstrasse 42/43
        10997 Berlin-Kreuzberg 
        Weekly from 5pm until 10pm (regular market takes place Fri, 12:00-19:00; Sat, 09:00-16:00; Sun, 12:00-18:00)

        More pictures of the foodiness in Berlin on our Facebook page




        Babies and parents and instagram - oh my!

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        Pregnant in Berlin
        The night of the test. We think this is...good news?
        After sitting on the news for a whole month - a record for us - we finally told everyone what is up with my not drinking. Preggers.

        Though initially terrified (seriously check those faces), we are getting towards the wildly excited end and are doing our best to figure out how to have a a baby in Germany. I am freaking out and keeping the US family informed on a tumblr of random at In Berlin, Baby. If you too find yourself interested in why we have considered the name Clovis for our offspring or what movies we are watching to prepare (movies are the new books, right?) - head on over.

        On the other end of the spectrum, the parentsare coming! Once again, my brave parents are trekking over the ocean from the American west coast and this time landing in Copenhagen. I will be meeting them up there where we are sure to cry and be fools saying hi again for the first time in almost a year. Ian will meet us the next day in Hamburg and then we will finally show them our new home in Berlin. Thought they've seen it on TV, this will be their first viewing in person. I hope they like it, and will forgive us the stairs.
        travel in Europe

        We'll be taking advantage of European adventuring taking trips to see my cousins in Zurich, our foreign exchange student studying in Frankfurt, dodging into France for a bit and taking a trip for pottery into Poland.And of course we'll be touring more of our favorite city - BERLIN! I will have to put together a comprehensive list of "Where to take your parents in Berlin" sometime, maybe for my new about.com job or on EasyExpat.

        In any case, I have so enjoyed posting more useful stuff on this blog about places in the city and travel in Europe and will get away from this icky personal stuff again soon. But for now, thanks for allowing me to announce all of our happenings.

        If you want to see where these next few weeks take us, I'll be posting snippets on instagram, check out the picture post archive - ah! and have a slew of scheduled posts for about.com Germany Travel. For now, we'll just keep jumping

        Pregnant Abroad jump gif

        German Fruit Wine Festival

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        Werder Baumblütenfest As an avid fan of alcohol, I knew it was going to be hard saying good-bye. But for the sake of the little person we don't even know yet, I have. And - shockingly - it hasn't been nearly as hard as I thought it would be.

        While I love my beer (and Ian has continued to enjoy in my absence), I don't really feel like I am missing out. I have indulged my fair share and in this latest adventure I feel like I will take any step necessary to make this a success. I have avoided out beloved spätis in Berlin, abstained on our latest adventure through France and skipped beers in my favorite brewery city in Germany.

        But this weekend I will be tested again. The Fruit Wine Festival (Baumblütenfest) is back.

        When I first heard about it from Travels of Adam, it sounded a little horrifying. Hot and sickly sweet, crammed with teenage Germans. Somehow I forgot all about this when I was invited to attend the next year... until I was reading up on what exactly I'd agreed to.

        Sure we could make the best of anything, especially with alcohol and even without Ian (who was playing in his first Berlin softball game), I put on a brave face and met my group at Alex. A noisy, crowded train ride later, we were in Werder and sampling away at fruit wines.

        Werder Baumblütenfest
         Werder Baumblütenfest

        Werder an der Havel, Deutschland

        Werder an der Havel

        Fruit Wine Festival in Germany


        Werder Baumblütenfest

        Polizei Werder Baumblütenfest

        Werder Baumblütenfest Spätzle

        Wines at Germany's Fruit Wine Festival

        Werder an der Havel, Germany

        In all honesty, I loved it. Once off the train, there multiple areas in which to escape the masses of vomiting teens. Cross the bridge and walk past the fairgrounds on the island to find a much chiller, family-friendly environment.

        Hope you go and enjoy as much as the kid below. I think I took this picture at around noon.

        Drunk German Teenager


        For actual info about the event and how you too can pass out on fruit wine, refer to my about.com post:

        Baumblütenfest in Werder

        Germany's largest fruit wine festival just outside of Berlin.



        Where to Take Your Parents in Switzerland

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        Swiss Alps with cloudI never thought I would go to Switzerland three times in just over a year, but cheap flights from Berlin to Basel and family near Zurich has made it a top destination lately. When my parents visited it was off to see the cousins - and more - in Switzerland.

        Wädenswil

        On this second trip out to the cousin's place I brought the whole crew of mom, dad and husband. The cousins were once again disappointed in the weather and it was quite drizzly, but for a bunch of northwesters this was hardly a problem. This suburb about 20 minutes south of Zurich, the town sits along Lake Zurich and offers close proximity to the highly regarded Zurich International School. It is also, according to wikipedia, sometimes called "Wädi". Hubsch.

        Though their home is smaller than the one they left in Ohio, it is a palace (real beds!) compared to our place in Berlin and the family enjoyed the chance to re-connect and learn more about their expat life. This isn't as much of a tourist destination but a handy base for exploring the nearby attractions like the city of Zurich, badass mountain toboggan on Flumserberg and Lucerne. That said, it does have absolutely gorgeous views, charming small-town feel and lots of expats.

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland

        Alps Wädenswil Switzerland

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland

        Bellinzona

        If I had known how amazing Bellinzona was I would have planned a trip there. But in reality, our visit was a happy accident. Did you know you need a passport to enter and leave Switzerland? Yeah,  I totally forgot that. I never take my passport anywhere for fear of losing it and the all-important visa and this did not work out so well when we set-off for Italy and halfway there realized there was a serious possibility I wouldn't be able to re-enter. Merda.

        Desperate for a new destination, we set the GPS to attractions as we headed through the Gotthard Tunnel into the Italian Alps. And there we found it - Bellinzona. Lying in the Ticino canton, the city is famous for its three (count 'em - THREE) UNESCO World Heritage castles.

        Though we've now done a fair bit of traveling in Switzerland, this was our first tiptoe into the Italian section and I couldn't believe the difference. It was warmer, the people were speaking Italian (we got sworn at by an angry Italian Swiss women!) and there were palm trees. And the castles were simply breath-taking.

        One note of caution: Do not - and I repeat - DO NOT try to get gelato mid-April. What seemed like a perfect treat after the climb up to Castlegrande turned into a bit of a death march as none of the shops were open or serving yet. That is, except for one shop that we finally tracked down that was offering cones for free = massive noisy line of screaming Italian/Swiss kids. Apparently you need to wait for gelato to be in season.

        Bellinzona Switzerland


        Castlegrande Bellinzona Switzerland
        Castlegrande

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland

        Jump Shot Bellinzona Switzerland
        I'm taking you all over the world baby.

        Lucerne

        On our way out, we decided to cram in one more location. Cousin-recommended Lucerne is straight outta a postcard. Located on Lake Lucerne (der Vierwaldstättersee) the city is famous for its wooden Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke). Erected in the 14th century, the place is ridiculous gorgeous. This is parent travel porn and a top recommendation for anyone heading to Switzerland.

        Lucerne Switzerland


        Woden Bridge Lucerne Switzerland

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland
        Kapellbrücke

        Wooden Bridge Lucerne, Switzerland

        Go For a Drive Around Switzerland

        As it happened, we did a lot of driving on this trip (or, erm, mom did. Thanks mom!). While I love traveling by train and appreciate how quick and easy discount flights are, driving in Switzerland is pretty incredible. We'd be chatting with my cousin and just trail off as hilltop cathedrals, insanely green hills and mountains that put the Northwest to shame soared by.

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland

        Road side Chapel in Ticino

        Swiss Alps

        Where to Take your parents in Switzerland

        Most Beautiful Rest Stop in the World


        Jumping in the Swiss Alps
        Mountains are Porter approved

        Basically, it's hard to go wrong taking your parents to Switzerland. Just beware the restaurant bills - ouch! For more Switzerland in pics go to our Swiss Facebook album and to watch the trip in motion, video of the Swiss Trip:





        For other destinations in Switzerland:
        Bern, Switzerland - City of Fountains

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour

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        This city is full of nondescript, even decrepit-looking buildings that hide a world of Berlin history. So we weren't put off when we arrived in the middle of nowhere (technically Oberschoeneweide) to what looked like a never ending waterfront of abandoned factories.

        We had been invited by a friend to take a tour of Rundfunk der DDR and really had no idea of what to expect. But as we're usually ready for anything, a tour of an East Berlin radio we would do.


        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour
        We joined the group at the entrance and wondered if the tour would be in English or German.

        "Guten Morgen!" said the tour guide.

        Ok, time to put our German ears on.
        We learned that this giant complex of buildings once housed an employee populace the size of a small city. In addition to the recording studios, concert hall, and conference rooms, there was a canteen, clinic, bookstore, grocery store, ice cream parlor, dentist, hairdresser and even a sauna (Germans and their sauna). Decorated in the Bauhaus style, the site is impressive both for its size and authentic details.

        Tour the former DDR Radio Station

        The hallways were wide enough to accommodate the thousands who worked here and our little group was dwarfed by their size. Studios can still be rented out so the occasional musician would wander out one door and into the next. We heard the quickest way to move about this gigantic space is by skateboard or scooter and there are a few lying around.

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour

        Tour the former DDR Radio Station

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour

        We happened to be there on one of Berlin's rare winter sunshiny days - which I wouldn't think would matter for an indoor tour - but the light streaming in was all kinds of magic on the wood and tile floors and stoic concrete walls.

        spaceship in the Berlin woods
        See the spaceship?

        Tour the former DDR Radio Station

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour
        Milchbar

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour

        Berlin picture boothI don't know what exactly we all wanted out of the tour, but it was one of those perfect Berlin days. Our friends that had invited us were returning to their homeland in England and we all had the feeling of things coming to an end (...and beginning as they are pregnant as well).


        The tour was a great look at a previously undiscovered corner of the city and a reminder that you can never know all of Berlin.

        On our way home we came across the photo booth at Warschauer and decided a spontaneous photo was the best way to remember the day. After all, things don't really end here, just change.


        Berlin photoautomat Warschauer

        Funkhaus Nalepastrasse Tour Details

        Getting all Willy Wonka in Berlin: Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt

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        Make your own chocolate in BerlinMy parents were on their third visit to Berlin and though we'd had a great time checking out baby stuff and traipsing about Switzerland, I was determined to show them more to love in my adopted home. After all the war memorials and major tourist sites, I thought chocolate might be the easiest way to charm them.

        But 5 minutes away from the Ritter Sport Chocolate Shop we were forced to turn back by thundering rain and hail. HAIL! Oh, April weather. Brave Northwesters that we are, we were ultimately undeterred and found our way back to the site of one of Germany's most famous chocolates.

        Officially called Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt (Ritter Sport Colorful Chocolate World), I had heard that you made your own chocolates here. I knew it could be gimmicky and touristy, but this was my chance to be Willy Wonka and there was no way I was passing that up.

        We clearly weren't the only one with this idea as we entered the busy lower level where you select your chocolate innards and joined a line. We were told by the cheery chocolate makers (kidding! No one in the service industry in Berlin in cheery) that there would be a 40 minute wait to collect your chocolate. Boosted by our desire for Schokolade, we selected light or dark chocolate, 3 add-ins, paid our 3.90 euro per bar and wandered through the shop, up the stairs, past the small museum and into the chocolate cafe to wait. 


        Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt
        The face of German customer service

        Make your own chocolate in Berlin

        Make your own chocolate in Berlin
        Even more chocolatey choices in the shop
        I perused the walk-through museum and short film as Ian sought out a bathroom and my parents got to rest their weary feet in the cafe. Something for everyone!

        As if we weren't going to get enough chocolate with our individual candy bars, we each ordered a chocolate coffee drink that came with a small side of chocolate. Mine came dusted with coco powder. Seriously. If you have diabetes - run far away. (Sorry Ian.)


        Make your own chocolate in Berlin

        Berlin Ritter Sport Bunte SchokoweltWhen time was about up, my parents bought some chocolates for gifts (well-priced gift packs) and we made our way to the downstairs counter to collect our bounty. Our receipt with number identified which were ours and 4 different bars were stuffed into their colorful individual containers. While each of us spouted the merits of our chocolate choices, none of us were up for eating more chocolate at that moment. We saved the bars for later and vowed to run a complete taste test with a very biased crew - us.

        Ritter Sport Chocolate Bar Taste Test



        Make your own chocolate in Berlin
        tourist attraction in Berlin




        Dad's Bar

        Ingredients: Milk Chocolate, cranberry, caramelized almonds & gold stars

        Mom
        Dad
        Ian
        ebe
        TOTAL
        4
        4
        4
        3.5
        15.5

        Mom's Bar (Cheryl's Creamy Creation)

        Ingredients: Milk Chocolate, cranberry, coco nubs & caramelized almonds

        Mom
        Dad
        Ian
        ebe
        TOTAL
        3.75
        3.5
        3.75
        3.25
        14.25

        Ian's Bar (Satan's Butthole)

        Ingredients: Milk Chocolate, chili powder, red peppercorn & caramelized almonds

        Mom
        Dad
        Ian
        ebe
        TOTAL
        3.25
        4
        3.75
        2
        13

        ebe's Bar

        Ingredients: Dark Chocolate, raspberry, yogurt bits & coco nubs

        Mom
        Dad
        Ian
        ebe
        TOTAL
        3.75
        3.75
        4.25
        4.75
        16.5

        Overall, we all stayed fairly conventional on what we added. Ian was the most adventurous and his chocolate bar turned out the worst with the peppercorn turning out dangerously strong, especially against the milk chocolate.  Even so, it was still edible.

        So was it worth it? The bars themselves are fine, and for almost 4 euros pretty expensive, but the value was in spending some time together talking about one of the most beloved substances on earth - chocolate. The primary colors, bustling atmosphere and place to watch the throngs of people moving around Gendarmenmarkt were all key elements in adding another thing to love about Berlin.

        Berlin Ritter Sport Bunte Schokowelt

        Details on the shop (as well as the headquarters in Waldenbuch outside of Stutgart):

        Make your own Chocolate Bar at Ritter Sport


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